Surfers the world over know that it’s not just about the ride.  Ask anybody who has logged untold hours paddling against the current, taken it on the head more times than they can count, and sat forever shivering, waiting for the next wave.  All for a twenty-second thrill?  Not exactly.

We were like dogs who never tired of chasing a ball. Shoot the pier, ride to the shoreline, walk back under the pier, paddle back out, shoot it again.    It was an easy, effortless ride, just the way life seemed to be that summer.